Caol Ila 2004 (Gordon & MacPhail) - Review
Age: 12-13 years
Barrel type: Ex-bourbon, first-fill and refill
Region: Islay
ABV: 46%
Price: $60
Additional details: Non-chill filtered, natural color
On our trip last year to Scotland, we found this bottle at a supermarket chain called Co-Op. Which begs the question: do the Scottish seriously get to enjoy high-quality, independent bottlings of some of the best distilleries in the country, simply by going to their everyday grocery stores? Once again, I'm reminded of why I need to move to Scotland when I grow up.
Gordon & MacPhail is one of the oldest independent bottlers in Scotland and traces it origins to a 19th-century grocer that began buying single casks of whisky from nearby Speyside distilleries to offer to their customers. More than a hundred years later, G&M offers expressions from all over the country, including -- in this case -- a lovely and atypical Islay whisky from Caol Ila.
Like most of its Islay brethren, Caol Ila generally produces heavily peated single malts, which have an intense, smoky, and earthy character that makes them among the most challenging scotches to enjoy. Because Caol Ila produces a much larger volume than other Islay distilleries like Lagavulin or Ardbeg, however, it features a greater variation in its spirit, with some runs being entirely unpeated. This particular bottle hews closer to that end of the spectrum and highlights often unnoticed facets of the spirit's character.
Appearance: Chardonnay in color, this dram has almost no legs at all and does not grip the sides of the glass. I'm surprised this is bottled at 46% because, by appearance, it resembles a 40% lightweight.
Nose: Is this a Highland whisky masquerading as a Caol Ila? Its most prominent characteristics include vanilla and white fruit such as pear or white peach. It's also surprisingly floral at times, although its Islay heritage reveals itself in a healthy dose of brine. There is some peat, but it lingers on the edges, imparting a faint minerality.
Palate: Key lime pie is an unexpected revelation on the palate of this mellow, easy-drinking whisky. Its predominant flavors are sweet or dessert-like: vanilla, butter, and honey. Like all coastal Islay whiskies, seaspray and brine add a pleasing, seasoned character to each sip.
Finish: Like all phases, the peat is subtle on the finish and expresses itself as aromatic woodsmoke and salted butter. When we had this with other Islay expressions, particularly cask-strength bruisers, the peat is close to imperceptible and yields instead to some butter cookie sweetness.
Value for Money and Final Impressions: G&M bottles tend to sell for a premium stateside, so this would probably be an $80-90 bottle here. For $60 in Scotland, this was a tremendous value for money, and even more worthwhile because it showcased what unpeated Caol Ila tastes like. There are some official unpeated Caol Ila offerings, but those tend to be annual limited releases that cost significantly more, for only a few additional years of aging.
Rating: B+