Penny for Your Thoughts - Delilah's
Thanks to the slightly smaller pours at Delilah's, we were able to try a larger spread of whiskies than we'd ordinarily enjoy at a single pit stop. That was a stroke of good fortune, as Delilah's had a collection of Islay expressions that were completely unfamiliar to us. Even better, they all absolutely killed it. This might have been the single best lineup of scotches that we've tried in one sitting.
Kilchoman Whiskey Week 2017 (59.8% ABV) - This bottle's origin is a total mystery to me. I unfortunately didn't think to take a picture of the bottle, so I don't remember the detailed description. Nor have I ever heard of "Whiskey Week," much less a week associated with Kilchoman. That being said, this is almost certainly a small batch or perhaps even a single barrel selected by Kilchoman for some event -- maybe a Chicago-based week celebrating our favorite spirit? This starts off with fascinating and unusual aromas of balsamic vinaigrette and herbal peat. Every sip redounds with salty, herbal peat and a light lemon sweetness characteristic of Kilchoman (and also Caol Ila and Ardbeg, its closest cousins on Islay). At 60%, the finish is about as long and powerful as I'd expect: smoke and citrus for days. A-
Compass Box Delilah's 25th Anniversary (46%) - This celebratory anniversary blend is self-referential in a unique way. It features a substantial portion of whiskey that Compass Box bottled for Delilah's 20th anniversary, further aged in a refill hogshead. Add to that a ton of sherry-aged single malts from around Scotland, and a touch of light grain whisky, and we have this bottle. It's surprisingly affordable at about $100 a bottle and available at a few liquor stores around the country, if you can't make it to Chicago to try it at the bar it honors. This whisky is what Macallan 18 wishes it was, a rich, complex, sherried dram that is worthy of contemplation and appreciation. Expect to encounter some of these flavors along the way: strawberries, baking spices, cherries, caramel, honey, apple cider, pepper, cocoa nibs, and fruit-based desserts. I'll cop to some bias against sherried whiskies, but this might be the best that I've encountered. A
James MacArthur 6-Year Old Islay (45%) - The crazy part about the night was that the first two whiskies were just a prelude for what was coming. This bottle, the third we tried, was an independent bottling of Lagavulin -- something virtually unknown to me. Note that, even when a bottler is lucky enough to get its hands on a cask of Lagavulin, the distillery's own name typically cannot be attached to the final product. Hence, this generically described 6-year old Islay whisky. Despite the young age and unassuming name, this is a bravura accomplishment. My nose notes that unmistakable funky Islay peat, with almost a rubber-like scent or asphalt that I most associate with Lagavulin. The palate is delicious, rich clotted cream, vanilla, some rice (another Lagavulin signature) or dry malt, and even a hint of an amber ale. The finish has that unusual, beer-like quality as well, blended with vanilla coffee. A
Blackadder Peat Reek Cask Strength (59.3%) - This is bottle no. 124 of 269 of another single cask of Lagavulin, again without the distillery's name since this is an independent bottling. This one also has no age statement, so no idea how many years it spent in the cask. The name pretty much sums up its scent: nearly overpowering peat reek. Again, in typical Lagavulin fashion, the palate is sweeter and more complex, with mellow almond cream flavors and a healthy dose of wood tannins that suggests this is an older expression. The higher ABV also makes it a bit prickly, and contributes to a long, complex, smoke-and-licorice finish. A
Highland Park Delilah's 13th Anniversary (57.7%) - Remember how I mentioned that our bartender gave us some amazing recommendations, including letting us know about off-menu expressions? This is what he pulled off the shelf for us. It's a 13-year old Highland Park distilled in 1992, bottled in 2006 for Delilah's 13th anniversary. Recall that this year is their 25th. Our bartender said they'd just found the last few bottles of this lying around from 12 years ago. And, upstanding bar that they are, they didn't jack up the price to a crazy level. If I recall correctly, this was around $15 a pour. It was also the best Highland Park that I've ever had or probably ever will have, along with the finest sherry single cask that I've tasted. Some whiskies just absorb the flavors of their barrels faster, and it is amazing the density and richness of flavor here: the strongest raisin scent and taste I've ever encountered, brown sugar, vanilla, cherries, figs, and dried dates all take their turn on the stage. A+
Kilchoman Comraich (55.5%) - It's not common for me to review a bar menu and see an expression from an Islay distillery that is unfamiliar to me, but I had no idea what this one was when I noticed it. Comraich, I learned from a quick Google, is a very limited edition bottling that Kilchoman has released only to a handful of partner bars. In fact, by public reports, it should be available only in 3 bars in the U.K. How did Delilah's come upon a bottle? Search me, but I'm glad they did. This Comraich has a punchy aroma that reminds me of mouth-savoring, brown-sugar-glazed donuts, yet also a really funky, vegetal peat. The palate and the finish taste like malt, barbecue, and stout beer, with rich, heavy, bitter flavors combining with thick, unguent chocolate. It's quite a dram, and a fitting capstone for our night. A-
I really don't like giving out all A grades in any post; perhaps it's the grade inflation critic in me. But, in this case, every whisky in this post merited its score. Counting down the days until my next visit to Delilah's!
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