Penny for Your Thoughts - The Whiskey Ward
While at The Whiskey Ward on my most recent trip to New York, I had the pleasure of trying two whiskies. One of the two was an unusual treat for me: an Indian whisky, a genre that I've barely explored.
Amrut Cask Strength (61.8% ABV) - Indian whisky has a reputation for being less refined but more intensely flavorful than its Scottish counterparts. That's not the product of crude cultural stereotypes (at least, I hope not). It is the result of the vastly different aging environments for the two regions. Scotland is cool and relatively dry, which results in low wood interaction that necessitates long maturation periods, and also a low angel's share of perhaps 1-2% on an annual basis. Because of those two features -- need and ability -- scotches often need 10 to 20 years of age before they reach their prime. In contrast, Indian whiskies age in stultifying, humid, tropical conditions where the angel's share may be 10-15% a year, and the whisky practically pounds the flavor out of the wood in just a few years. Try to age an Indian whisky (or a Taiwanese whisky, which ages in a similar environment) for 10 years and there'll basically be nothing left in the barrel but muddy water!
Because these whiskies mature quickly, Indian whiskies tend to lack age statements. It wouldn't be particularly impressive to be drinking "Amrut 4-year," even if it could equal a 12- or 15-year old scotch in flavor. This cask-strength whisky is undoubtedly young, but it's hard to tell when sipping it. The nose reminds me of bourbon right away: a clear, almost pristine scent of vanilla, gradually joined by spice and laced with honey. Its flavors, however, are more reminiscent of an unpeated scotch, which makes sense since Indian whisky also is made exclusively from malted barley. Honey and leafy, earthy tea, along with a healthy hit of spicy heat, define this dram. B+
The Macallan Edition No. 3 (48.3%) - As a general rule, the more often that you hear a whisky's name on television or in the movies, the worse a value it will be in the real world. Have you ever seen Suits? Everyone drinks Macallan 18. It costs $250+ for a bottle, compared to $150 or so for the superb GlenDronach 18. Guess which one is the better value. However, with all of that being said, Macallan does make superb whiskies. The Edition line may represent the peak of the distillery, and the sweet spot for value-for-money in their lineup. These no-age-statement whiskies cost around $100 and are produced by a partnership between the distillery and some master artisan from another discipline. For instance, I loved Edition No. 2, a collaboration between Macallan and the three-Michelin star chefs from Celler de Can Roca. This whisky is a blend of barrels selected by a master perfumer, Roja Dove.
It's no surprise, then, that the nose is its standout feature: caramelized apple, black tea, smoke, and rich sherry combine to form a coherent and mouth-watering symphony. On first taste, its sherry-aged components come to the fore. This whisky has a creamy mouthfeel. Unfortunately, its taste is more generic than its lovely nose. The finish excels again, with sulfur smoke, chocolate, roasted nuts, and tart, dried fruit. If only they could combine this nose and finish with the palate of Edition No. 2! B+