Laphroaig Cairdeas 2013 and 2014 - Joint Review
I've previous reviewed the most recent three entries in Laphroaig's annual limited release series, the 2015, 2016 Madeira Cask, and 2017 Cask Strength Quarter Cask expressions. To varying degrees, I enjoyed them all, and they undeniably provided an intriguing twist on the typical Laphroaig flavor profile.
I didn't hold out much hope a few months ago for finding earlier years' releases, which have grown quite rare and expensive. I have seen a few bottles of 2014's Cairdeas, which was finished in Amontillado casks, around Miami, but for stunning prices ($130-200). And I haven't even seen a bottle of 2013's famed Port Wood in person.
Thanks to a series of sample trades, however, I was able to obtain 2 ounces of each of these and tried them side by side last night.
Appearance: Because Laphroaig does not add artificial coloring to the Cairdeas line, you get to see what Laphroaig actually looks like and compare the effects of different finishing techniques. The 2013 Port Wood expression is noticeably darker in the glass, with a honey-like, rich, golden tone -- no surprise given that it was finished in port pipes, which tend to impart a lot of dark color. The 2014 Amontillado is a light, sunflower shade.
Nose: 2013's Port Wood leads the way with signature Laphroaig leather, which is a blend of smoke and rich, musty oil. This nose is one of the more complex I've encountered for a scotch, and features an eager blast of scents that tends to suggest this is a young scotch, perhaps 8 to 10 years old. On the sweet side, I notice some tangerine and maple syrup from the port; on the savory side, smoke, iodine, brine, and a unified impression that I can best describe as "barbecue grill."
The next year's Amontillado release is like night and day from the dark, brooding, and puissant Port Wood. Amontillado is delicate and almost demure in its presentation, with among the lowest levels of smoke I've experienced in a Laphroaig. Instead, perfume scents predominate on the nose, including some floral, musky aromas, and then a bit of coastal gravel or wet sand. It reminds me in some ways of a Highland single malt blended with a Laphroaig, like something that could come out of Compass Box.
Palate: Port Wood again barrels ahead with its power-running style. It immediately opens with a wallop of dense, cigar smoke, and more hints of the presence of young Laphroaig, including some raw wood and bittersweet sap. Thankfully, the complexity of the other flavors carries the palate past any minor hints of youthful indiscretion, and there's also a great balance created by the dram's sweeter hints of grape jam. Again, the interplay of the smoke and some sweeter flavors recalls a nice honey-marinated barbecue. There is also something herbal on some sips, but I can't quite put my finger on it. The texture is lovely, like liquid velvet.
Compared to the direct presentation of Port Wood, Amontillado is subtler and sweeter, with a seductive combination of vanilla and pear that again reminds me of some high-end Highland single malts. The Amontillado's contribution seems to be these orchard fruits on some sips, and then on other sips, a pronounced caramel. Don't get me wrong, the palate still has a decent serving of smoke and peat, but nothing compared to the Port Wood. I don't get as many hints of youth in this scotch.
Finish: This is a dream peaty finish for the Port Wood: smoke, sweet ham, applewood-smoked bacon, and maple syrup or molasses. It's like a southern-style breakfast in a glass. Subsequent sips build up in pepperiness and wood spices. The youth reveals itself a bit too much over time, as the lingering notes are a little too bitter.
Compared to the sweet, meaty, and spicy Port Wood, Amontillado presents a surprisingly savory and smoky finish relative to its taste and aroma. The smoke really rises up on the finish and packs a punch, giving rise to a classically complex and long Laphroaig finish featuring roasted nuts and cocoa.
Value for Money and Final Impressions: Value for money's kind of an irrelevant consideration considering that these single malts are no longer widely available. Back when people could have purchased these limited editions for the standard price of about $80 a bottle, I'd say that they both represented excellent value. These scotches highlight the value of special or limited editions in a distillery's portfolio -- they both reveal a different side to the distillery than is attainable in any of the brand's standard expressions (none of which feature barrels finished in either port or Amontillado). And both are worth trying because they tack in opposite directions: while Port Wood is brooding, heavy, and almost daunting at times, Amontillado is much easier-drinking and restrained. I suspect true peatheads would appreciate the former more; but they are both well worth a scotch aficionado's time.
Ratings: A (Port Wood), A- (Amontillado)