Penny for Your Thoughts - Old Forester Birthday Flight
Back home visiting the folks, I dropped by the bourbon mecca of Indianapolis, North End BBQ, and got a flight of Old Forester’s famous Birthday Bourbon. Released once a year on September 2, the distillery founder’s Birthday, this has been one of the coveted limited releases of recent years and has seen a meteoric price increase from $50 to an MSRP of $80. In fact, good luck actually finding it at MSRP; most actual liquor stores now price this bourbon in the triple digits. They all come in an instantly recognizable, squat, watering jug style of container, which contributes to their distinctive identity and brand image. Each of these Birthday releases is a 12-year old bourbon and, before the release of the distillery’s Whiskey Row series, they represented the main premium product in Brown-Forman’s line. Heading into this tasting, the big question in my mind was whether this whiskey was worth the hype.
Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2015 (50% ABV) - At 100 proof, this was one of the burlier releases in the Birthday sequence at the time of its release. Its claim to fame, or distinction from other Birthday editions, is that it apparently comes from barrels aged near a window and a heating duct, which led to increased wood interaction and “robust” oak characteristics. The distillery’s right on the nose in that description, but I’m not sure it’s a good thing. On the nose I immediately detect that resinous, bitter oak characteristic of heavily woody (or overly woody) bourbons, but balanced with a concentrated vanilla and butterscotch combination. Occasionally, some burnt brown sugar comes to the forefront. Unfortunately, the rest of the experience doesn’t come close to the aroma. The overpowering oak has neutralized a lot of the sweet, dessert flavors I associate with rich, well-aged bourbons. The right tasting note is almost “splinters” — it’s just a rough, heavy dose of oak that’s not in balance with the weaker, simple syrup-esque sweetness that struggles to make itself heard. On top of that, there was a raw rye flavor that I wasn’t loving without any accompanying fruit or caramel. That oakiness is the standout characteristic of the relatively quick finish as well, although I did enjoy some flavors reminiscent of cherry at the end. I’m kind of shocked these bourbons garner such positive reviews. My initial impression of this line is overoaked and overpriced. C+
Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2016 (48.5%) - Apparently the Brown-Forman guys liked the way 2015 came out, because they specifically pulled 2016’s version from barrels near the windows that got extra sunlight. The scents that come out of this bourbon are amazing and unusual: there are intense chocolate-covered raisins, guava, Fruit Roll-ups, and earthy tobacco practically leaping from the glass. But this makes the letdown at the palate (a common theme in this flight) even more brutal and disappointing. There is too much oak again, some orchard fruits like underripe apples, and significant astringency. Some of those notes from the nose do pop up, but as distant background music, and I want them front and center in the worst possible way. The end doesn’t redeem this one, as it’s dry, astringent, and overly reliant on rye flavors. Last year's Birthday Bourbon is the best of the three, but not by much, and mainly because of that amazing nose. I’m bemused by these whiskies because normally I don’t see myself as a fan of sweet flavors, but I’ve recently had some dry, dusty bourbons that are making me reconsider that self-assessment. These bourbons just need a touch of something sugary! I’m also bemused because I read some of the amazing reviews for these and am left thinking, are we even drinking the same whiskey? B-
Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2017 (48%) - Sadly, the newest Birthday release is not the Cordelia to 2015’s Goneril or 2016’s Regan. There just is something about this line that does not sit well with me. Where are all the incredible flavors bursting out of the no-age-statement Old Forester 1920, which may be my favorite regular release bourbon? Perhaps there is something about Brown-Forman’s juice that just does not benefit from aging up to the tween years, as Old Forester 1920 is probably a blend of product in the 4-8-year range and is amazing. 2017 actually takes a step in the wrong direction on the nose, with similar aromas to 2015 but with a slightly artificial caramel and glue melange that’s messing with my senses. The palate is another wallop of oak and another desperate search for sweet notes. If anything, bitter flavors of resin, tobacco, and shoe polish grow in strength through yet another dry finish. I saw this at my local liquor store for $130 and am so grateful I didn’t grab it. I just purchased two Four Roses Private Selections for less than that while in Indianapolis, which is indicative of the incredibly bad value that Birthday Bourbon has become in the current climate. C
***
On their merits alone, these bourbons belong in the $40-50 range as an interesting experiment in intense wood flavors. It’s not that they’re bad or unpleasant; they are challenging and different from the norm, so would be worth trying at a reasonable cost reflecting the value of what’s in the bottle and the novelty of this style of bourbon. Their well-aged nature also shines through in the nose in most of these editions, which is superior and with much clearer flavors than the average bourbon. But I did not experience the complexity and depth of flavor that so many reviewers have praised in this line, and I won’t be likely to try them again. Not for the $80 MSRP, and definitely not for the silly secondary prices they command.