Penny for Your Thoughts - Four Roses Elliott's Select, Rendezvous Rye, Traverse City, Michter
Today’s set of reviews features the seventh whiskey to get an A+ from me. What a stunning dram!
Four Roses Elliott's Select (50-60% ABV) - Four Roses Elliott's Select was a limited edition from 2016 and represented the debut of new master distiller Brent Elliott, who took over for the legendary Jim Rutledge. Knowing the importance of a first impression, Elliott selected a number of 14-year old barrels of Four Roses' OESK recipe, which is arguably the bourbon community's favorite variation. Because of the use of multiple single barrels, the proof varied from bottle to bottle between 100 and 120 proof. I'm not exactly sure the proof of the sample I tried, although judging by its lack of significant heat, I'd estimate it was in that 50-53% range rather than the higher end. This is (or was, since it's no longer widely available in stores) a stunning bourbon, and the best I've had from Four Roses. The nose exhibits the clarity and potency of flavor that comes only when everything -- distillation, aging, selection -- goes right. Vanilla latte, coconut, strawberry, butterscotch, banana crepe, and oak all have their turn. Then the palate turns to a rich breakfast spread: maple syrup drizzled over vanilla french toast, banana caramel crepes, and a few flecks of chocolate (which I find to be a signature of the OESK recipe). The age manifests as a sweet, lightly spicy oak that provides the frame for the other flavors. Elliott's Select finishes with a balanced conclusion of oak, rye spice, peach, apricot, and honey. This bourbon was $125 at retail, and multiples of that on the secondary market now. If I'd had a chance to buy this at retail, I'd have purchased 2 or 3 bottles. A+
High West Rendezvous Rye (46%) - One of the major power players among new distilleries, and one of the few distilleries in Utah, High West has a stellar reputation for making first-rate ryes. This is the first one that I have had the pleasure of trying, and it consists of an older, 16-year old rye and a younger, 6-year old rye. I'm not sure of the exact proportions, but the overall idea was to get a blend of fresher characteristics with the benefits of a well-aged rye (in fact, I haven't heard of many ryes released in their late teens). As soon as I sipped this rye, it instantly vaulted into first place among all of the ryes I've tried, which admittedly is a much smaller number than scotches or bourbons. The blend of two differently aged whiskies has produced a complex set of aromas, but all of them delightful: cappuccino, caramel, rye spice, pineapple, and butterscotch. Then even more flavors pop up in the palate: creamy oatmeal, dill, vanilla, and citrus notes. The rye spice is quite strong in all three phases, but manifests most strongly after the swallow, when it combines with yeasty bread flavors, mint, and orange. At $60-70, this is not cheap, but it's much richer and more complex than its more affordable cousins. A-
Traverse City Straight Bourbon (43%) - I enjoyed a dram of this years ago in Phoenix on a sweltering summer night (100 degrees plus), and then saw it on a menu down here in Miami again last weekend. I recalled liking it, so ordered it again. I was happy to find that I continued to enjoy this bourbon, and would place it in the top half of independent bourbons that I've experienced. Its main downside is that it doesn't have the intense punch of flavor that I really look for in a bourbon and has a slightly watery texture that's characteristic of independent brands, which simply cannot afford to age their products as much as the established big-name distilleries. That being said, the four years that this bourbon spent in the barrel has already resulted in a healthy amount of development. The nose features a lot of rye spice, vanilla, corn, and a putty-like smell, which is unusual but not off-putting (as an Islay scotch fan, it may even have enhanced the experience for me). The palate contains a strong orange note, more rye spice, and honey. The short finish is dominated again by the rye and a sweet-and-sour bite that is characteristic of young bourbons. I think this will be a cracker at 7-8 years, and would love to try it at 47-48%. B-
Michter's Single Barrel Straight Rye (42.4%) - What is the deal with that alcohol percentage -- trying to squeeze an extra bottle or two out of every single barrel? Don't cut this down any further, please! Happily, despite the relatively low ABV, this rye has a pleasing, oily quality. The oddity of it is that it struck me as more of a high-rye bourbon rather than a low-rye rye, if that makes any sense. As a rye, it has to be at least 51% rye but, if I had to guess, it can't be much beyond 51%. It has all of the classic bourbon scents of vanilla, toasted oak, and caramel, and then follows up with those flavors on the palate as well. The rye emerges on the tongue after a sip or two, and certainly presents itself on the finish. This was an unexpected surprise, and is the most bourbon-like rye that I've had to date. If you're really more of a bourbon drinker than a rye drinker, Michter's might be the "missing link" that leads you to become a fan of the latter. Priced at $40-45, I'd suggest opting for a high-rye bourbon instead, like Four Roses Single Barrel. Among comparably priced ryes, Lot No. 40 (a Canadian, 100% rye whiskey) is better, as is Sazerac. B-