Penny for Your Thoughts - Talisker Distillers Edition, Macallan 12 Double Cask, Glenfarclas 17
I once worked at a place that, according to an overly sensational book published about it, had the informal motto, "Another day, another dollar." My personal motto? Another day, three more scotches.*
Talisker Distillers Edition (45.8% ABV) - Virtually all of Diageo's major distilleries offer a "distillers edition" or "distiller's edition," which is the base expression from a distillery with some added sherry finish. That's the formula with Lagavulin Distillers Edition, which is stupidly amazing, and Caol Ila and Oban have similar offerings. Talisker's Distillers Edition is finished in Amoroso sherry casks for the last few months before bottling, and that short amount of time does impart some significant changes to this single malt. Compared to Talisker 10, the powerful sherry influence diminishes some of the balance and variety of flavors that the base expression exhibits, and which makes it one of my favorite single malts. On the nose, I detect cherry, oily sherry, wisps of smoke, marzipan, and a distinct brininess. The palate is sweet and floral at first, with sherry and malt mixing with brine, a pinch of pepper, and citrus fruits. Overall, however, that sherry washes out more flavors than it adds, and makes this a less distinctive dram, one that I easily could have mistaken as the product of many Speyside distilleries. The finish consists of leather and shoe polish, gravel, and apple-flavored malt. A bottle can be found for about $80, so not much more than the original, but what's the point of the splurge when Talisker 10 is just so good? B+
Macallan 12 Double Cask (43%) - This is an unusual expression, and swims against the grain of Macallan's recent impulse to release highly priced, no-age-statement expressions. Double Cask is an experiment in aging, as the distillery acquired new American oak casks, seasoned them in sherry, and then used them for the bulk of this product (the remainder being the standard Macallan ex-sherry casks). This means that two different types of wood are being used here, and the result is a large proportion of casks that impart a milder flavor to the whisky that's later dumped in them. That's exactly what we get here. On the nose, there are notes more typical of a bourbon-aged or half-and-half whisky: vanilla, caramel, cream, oak, and mild sherry fruits and baking spices. The palate emphasizes the core malt flavor, which comes through best with ex-bourbon-cask aging, and almost tastes like a blend in its mixture of half-expressed flavors: some fruit, some honey, some spiced tea. Double Cask finishes on notes of malt and sweet cereal grains, along with some oaky barrel char. This comes in at a similar $65-70 price to Macallan 12, but I'd opt for the original. B
Glenfarclas 17 (43%) - Glenfarclas is one of the few remaining independently owned Scotch distilleries, and has a reputation for bold, sherried whiskies. This puts it squarely into competition with the big boys at Macallan and Aberlour, and other excellent Speyside distilleries such as GlenDronach. The 17-year old expression is arguably Glenfarclas's flagship, and it is an excellent scotch, albeit one that is, surprisingly, not a sherry bomb. This whisky's foundation is balance. In its aromas, there is a harmonious mix of red velvet cake, honey, mild sherry, and strawberry frosting. In its tastes, this sweet and easy-drinking whisky features sherry, more orange and citrus fruits than the nose, cake again, a little smokiness, honey, and vanilla. The finish integrates spice, wood, and sweet, milk chocolate for a calming conclusion. In its mildness and balance, Glenfarclas shares more in common with Aberlour than with other Speyside distilleries, and is a worthwhile alternative to its more famous brethren. A-
*To be clear, this is a joke -- much as I wish I could try three new scotches a day, that is not a good idea! Drink responsibly!