Barrell Bourbon - Review
This will be a somewhat unusual, extended (I want to make a corny double-Barrel(l) joke) review of two sourced bourbons that have received a lot of accolades in online reviews.
Age: 8 years, 6 months (Batch 006); 6 years (Batch 011)
Barrel type: Standard bourbon (charred fresh oak)
Region: Tennessee
ABV: 61.5% (Batch 006); 57.4% (Batch 011)
Price: $80
Additional details: non-chill filtered, natural color
Barrell Bourbon is an independent brand that sources whiskies from other distilleries and bottles them under its own name. The majority of their releases have been bourbons, but they have a few ryes and also recently started releasing American whiskies as well. People seem to go ga-ga for their barrel-proof, limited releases, so I had to grab a few samples and give them a try. Most sources out there say Barrell's bourbon comes from Dickel, although I don't have an opinion on that myself (having never tried Dickel, much less cask-strength Dickel).
Appearance: As I didn't get full bottles, I won't comment much on their appearance, other than to note that all of the brand's releases come in a distinctively shaped, signature bottle that kind of resembles a large opal or polished gemstone with a bottle neck. Handwritten label, nice cork, attractive and simple design -- these guys certainly know how to make a bourbon appear ultra-premium.
In the glass, Batch 006 was a mahogany or bronze shade, quite dark and rich in appearance, while Batch 011 was a noticeable few shades lighter, more in a butterscotch or dandelion vein. I made that observation before looking up the age of the two bourbons and remember being quite surprised because, at the time, I thought Batch 011 was supposed to be a bit older. Now it makes more sense.
Nose: I tried Batch 006 first, and it impressed me. Asian pear, plum, peach, exotic fruits all around. Significant oak gave the nose a firm framework for those sweeter flavors. Just a slight hint of singing alcohol, to be expected with such a powerful bourbon.
Batch 011 is different, richer, with more caramel, vanilla, and oak in the classic compendium of bourbon flavors. Where Batch 006 is like the traveling ne'er do well who wandered away from his home town and returned in strange garb, Batch 011 is the dutiful son who stayed and tended the family farm. Batch 011 does have a ripe, fruit underlayer that lends a different element of sweetness to the nose, but it is noticeably more conservative.
Palate: Unfortunately, both of these bourbons are a bit of a letdown on the palate, and not the equal of previous barrel-proof bourbons I've had, such as my recent foray into Four Roses Private Selections (which are spectacular and not much different in age from Barrell's Batch 006). Both bourbons had something of the "hole in the palate" sensation, which is a strange turn of phrase that I've seen in other reviews and have come to understand after trying a lot of different whiskies. There comes a point in the flavor progression where you expect the experience to amp up (it's kind of a, "Now for the guitar solo!" moment). Only a few bourbons rise to the challenge, and those are the true superstars. I don't think either Barrell quite hits that high water mark.
Batch 006 has a fruity entry, consistent with the nose, then some toffee, plums, brown sugar, heather, and ginger. But the notes don't punch with power, if that makes any sense, a particularly odd realization given the proof. Batch 011 has a very mellow entry as well, with oak tannins coming to the fore and mild, sweet flavors, almost reminiscent of a vanilla and honey cotton candy.
Interestingly enough, both Barrell releases are supposed to be in the 25-26% rye spice range, but that does not manifest much to me on the palate. This is not a spicy bourbon, at least to taste.
Don't get me wrong, these are tasty bourbons, but they didn't blow me away.
Finish: Each bourbon has an impressively long and complex finish. Unfortunately, Batch 006 stumbled a bit in the end in my estimation. Its finish features a dose of rye spice, cherry candy, and lots of oak, with a ton of warmth as it travels down the throat. However, the lasting final note from it is a grassy, slightly bitter flavor that I associate with younger cask-strength whiskies.
In contrast, its younger sibling, Batch 011, did not have that grassy flavor. There was still a good dose of rye spice at the end, some red chilis, and another generous helping (or heaping) of wood on the fire. Great end to Batch 011.
Value for Money and Final Impressions: Barrell places itself right up there with the big boys, demanding something in the $80 range for its releases. And, hey, they sell out quickly, so it's a market price. I personally have a few high-proof bourbons that cost a bit less but I like quite a bit more (the usual suspects like Four Roses Private Selection, or Old Forester 1920). So, while Barrell makes a quality product, I probably won't drop the cash for a bottle of my own.
Between the two releases, it's a closer call for me. I like Batch 006's creative, surprising nose better than Batch 011, and its palate has greater depth due to its stronger fruit-forward opening. But the grassiness of the finish is not ideal. I'd call it a rough tie, and one that doesn't matter a tremendous amount, since Batch 006 is long since sold out.
Rating: B+ (Batch 006), B+ (Batch 011)