Penny for Your Thoughts - The Dalmore 15, Johnett, Chivas Regal 12
We’ve just gotten home from a long trip to London and Paris, both of which are gorgeous at this time of year. Along the way, we of course managed to stumble upon a few whiskey bars and new whiskies. To be honest, it might take a month or more to finish reflecting on our experiences, but I’m starting off with some miscellaneous whiskies that we enjoyed during transit (and for free!).
The Dalmore 15 (40% ABV) - I have a minor beef with whisky distilleries that bill (and I mean literally, in pricing) themselves as luxury, premium brands but then bottle their higher-end expressions at the lowest legally allowable ABV. That’s a sure sign that the distillery is quite interested in capturing the inexperienced but well-off consumer who’s happy with creating the appearance of being a scotch drinker without knowing or enjoying much about what’s in the glass. In other words, Dalmore 15 seems intent on capturing the runoff from the well-heeled group ordering Blue Label and prizing it primarily for its smoothness. To be clear, I’m not knocking people who don’t love scotch, most don’t. I’m knocking Dalmore for preying on that type of person’s lack of knowledge and willingness to associate price with quality, when better sherried single malts are out there at much more reasonable price points. The Dalmore 15 is a gentle, fruity (and, yes, very smooth) sherried whisky. The flavors don’t stray far in either its scents or it mild, watery palate: orange citrus fruit, sherry, and a touch of sulphur. The finish is short and offers up berries, a healthy expression of oak, and woodsmoke. I'm not saying this is a terrible scotch, it's a fun, easy-sipping, tasty dram. What's so frustrating to me is that it would really shine with just a little more ABV and a little more flavor. Also, priced at over $100, this is not a good value. GlenDronach 12, which I’ll discuss in a future review, beats the pants off this bottle at two-thirds or less of the cost. Macallan 12 also sets the bar higher at a lower price, despite being even more well-known than Dalmore. B-
Johnnet (42% ABV) - Now here’s a fun and unusual one, which we got to enjoy because we flew Swiss Air. Johnett is made by a Swiss distillery that has been making fruit liqueurs for a long, long time, before breaking into the whiskey game recently. The version we had on the flight had a six-year age statement, so it represents some of the older liquid from the distillery. And, hey, unlike Dalmore 15, Johnett even manages to sneak in a few extra proof points above the bare minimum (OK, last time I’ll rag on Dalmore, at least for today). Johnett is very fruity, with loads of grapefruit, crisp melon, and strawberry. It smells like that part of the candy store where they store all the bright, multi-colored treats. The palate has all that fruitiness from the nose but a surprisingly pronounced oak and a touch of lemongrass. No doubt Johnett is young, and needs a few more years to truly hit its stride, as the flavors haven’t quite melded and harmonized together yet. The finish is reminiscent of a young bourbon’s vanilla and oak notes. I’m looking forward to trying Johnett 10 or 12 when it’s ready. B
Chivas Regal 12 (40%) - Now here’s a light scotch where I won’t dog on the ABV. It’s Chivas — most people are ordering it in a mixed drink or on the rocks anyways, and the ones who sip it aren’t looking for Heidegger in a glass. This is the strongest apple flavor I’ve detected in a scotch. It really smells like apple juice or, perhaps more accurately, alcoholic apple cider. People say Glenlivet has a strong apple note, but that only peeks through at times. This scotch is all apple, all the time. It is light and thin on the tongue, and has the gentlest and quickest finish I’ve had. It vanishes right after the swallow, so whisky drinking does not get easier than this one. At the very end, although it’s faint, I do get a whisper of coffee, so it's not flavorless. Chivas Regal tastes good but is best for true novice drinkers. Since it’s fairly priced as a mass-market scotch, I don’t mind. It’s a product that understands who and what it’s intended for, and charges fairly for that experience. B-
Previous Post Next Post