Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength (Batch 007) - Review
Age: 10 years
Barrel type: Ex-Maker's Mark bourbon barrels
Region: Islay
ABV: 56.3%
Price: $70
Additional details: non-chill filtered, color added
Drinking Laphroaig is kind of like getting into a fight with an angry Scotsman. But drinking cask-strength Laphroaig is more like getting into a fight with an angry Scotsman on steroids and speed.
Today's review subject is the James Bond batch of Laphroaig's cask strength version of their world-famous 10-year old scotch. Whoever came up with the idea of this limited release is a genius. Take one of the greatest basic expressions in scotch, and dispense with the dilution and give it to the customer uncut and in all its unrestrained glory.
Laphroaig releases these cask-strength scotches in batches, with Batch 007 being a January 2015 release. Each batch varies in its ABV, depending on how much the barrels allocated for that batch lose to the angel's share. At 56.3%, Batch 007 is a few ticks lower than the strongest batches (Batch 008 is close to 60%), but that still means it has a whopping 13% more alcohol than the standard U.S. release, and 16% more than the international version.
There are some rumors afoot that this expression might be discontinued, but it has gotten up to Batch 009, which was just released this summer. I don't know what I'll do if they drop this from the lineup. Start a petition or a letter-writing campaign, I suppose.
Appearance: Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength looks exactly like you'd expect a powerful, punchy scotch to look: dark orange and oily in the glass. Since color probably is added, I suspect that it looks more like Lagavulin 12 Cask Strength straight out of the barrel (i.e., lighter, almost lemon juice in color). I don't mind the addition of color here, though, as it complements the flavors to follow.
Older versions of the tin and bottle had a faux custom stamp design, but the newer batches, including this one, have a dark red band across the front saying "Original Cask Strength" along with red text that identifies the batch and bottling month and year.
Nose: This scotch is powerful, don't hold it too close. Even from a foot away, or holding it in hand while standing around, it's easy to pick up the top notes: BBQ lighter fluid and charcoal smoke, coral or seashells dried in the sun, seaweed, and, after a long while, vanilla as it settles down. Compared to Ardbeg and (non-sherry aged) Lagavulin, Laphroaig's distinguishing characteristic is a much lower level of lemon-lime citrus fruit.
Palate: Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength has a magical palate. It begins with a sweet entry, immediately followed by so much brine and iodine that it feels like dipping your head in the ocean with a mouth full of hard candies. Subsequent sips reveal pickled peppers, some tart fruit or orange creamsicle, bourbon-esque toffee, and flecks of chocolate. Through every sip, waves and waves of smoke drift around. Even in its texture, this scotch wrestles with the drinker, epitomizing what people mean when they say a whisky has an oily mouthfeel.
Finish: There's a flavorful heat to the end, akin to shisito peppers, balanced by mint, dark chocolate, and a strong oak backbone. Because of the high proof it can feel mildly anesthetizing, so be ready to ride the tiger with this scotch.
Value for Money and Final Impressions: At $70, Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength is a spectacular value. Compared to its main rivals, I'd slot this scotch in as Laphroaig's answer to Ardbeg Corryvreckan and Lagavulin 12 Cask Strength. I prefer this scotch to Corryvreckan because it has an age statement, is spicier on the finish, is about $10-20 cheaper depending on where I find it. Compared to Lagavulin 12, this has a brinier character and less oats or cereal grains, not to mention the fact that it's about half the price. Finally, I give Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength some bonus points because of the limited batch releases. It's fun to think that the next bottle I get, from a different batch, could have different characteristics.
Drinking Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength feels even more appropriate right now, as we prepare for Hurricane Irma to hit Miami. No other scotch could be as worthy of the occasion, and having it reveals why some refer to liquor in general as "liquid courage." Laphroaig 10 Cask Strength is, if anything, the liquid berzerk.
Rating: A+